Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 5: The 7th (not really) Continent

The day finally arrived in which we would land on the Antarctic continent itself. Everyone on the ship was excited; so few people venture to this remotest region of the planet. Our morning began with the usual wake up call from the expedition leader, who told us the temperature and weather forecast in his soft, calm voice. After a quick breakfast we organized into our usual "red" and "blue" groups--there were only enough zodiacs for half the passengers at a time, so we took turns. One group would take the zodiacs to land, while the other waited for those same zodiacs to come back to the ship to pick them up for an hour cruising around.

Passengers landing on the continent

We were the first group to land on the continent that morning. We had already landed on the South Shetland islands and a few other small rock outcroppings, but not the actual landmass itself. Our zodiac pilot got us extremely close to a low lying shore, and then we jumped into the shallow water and trudged up the snow covered embankment. Climbing up some gradual hills, we reached a point where we could enjoy a mesmerizing view of the surrounding landscape. Snow was ubiquitous in all directions, and you could see glaciers near the distant mountains. The sea glittered with icebergs blue big and small. It was hard to believe--we were standing on the edge of a huge landmass, a continent larger than Oceania. Although least explored, Antarctica was still a huge landmass on the Earth!

The vastness of the 7th continent

I remember one of the other passengers near us as we trekked up the tallest hill. "Yes, yes!" he cried triumphantly. We smiled at him, a little surprised. "Is this your seventh continent?!" he exclaimed? "No..." I replied... "I've never been to Australia." He looked surprised and slightly crestfallen. Apparently it is just as big a deal to check off visiting the seventh continent as it is to experience the expedition... for some. My wife and I chuckled to each other. We were thrilled to embark on the expedition for the chance to see unique wildlife and amazing landscapes, for the pure adventure. I guess we had some more traveling to do before we could "check off" all the continents.

Exploring the hills… and the slide

Feeling free and euphoric, we slid down the "slide" the expedition guides created for us. We couldn't believe what we were doing. Walking around Antarctica was like visiting the moon. We were exploring a landmass that likely only ~500,000 people have ever set foot on. It was surreal. As we would soon learn, Antarctica is synonymous with adventure.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 4: Whales

Nothing could have prepared us for our experience with the whales. Our encounters with them felt spiritual, and they epitomized the reasoning for visiting Antarctica. Sightings were made from the decks of The Ocean Atlantic, and those were memorable, but our interactions with whales from the zodiacs were magical. Only a foot or two above the surface of the water, we would drift along the Southern Ocean, motor off, surrounded by icebergs the size of houses and stadiums. The only sounds were the lapping of the water and the sharp intakes of cold air. And then one would surface, an enormous humpback, right next to us. Its blow would powerfully pierce the stillness, and then we'd see the rest of its body come up to the surface of the water. It was incredible.

Humpback’s face right in front of us, barnacles and all

It felt as though the humpbacks were communicating with us, almost reassuring us the raw nature enveloping us was okay. That's how overwhelming the experience was. They would say hello at the surface, sometimes go under our zodiac, and then appear somewhere else a little later. Our guides explained they came down to feed, and would lazily glide through the nutrient-dense water. They were calm, and their presence was reassuring, not alarming.

Zodiac observing two whales

The humpbacks were by far the most numerous, but we also saw minke whales and southern right whales--even blue whales! We observed a few minke whales from the zodiac; slightly smaller than the humpbacks, they were a little more wary to approach as closely. The most surprising sighting of the minkes, however, came as we were departing Antarctica for Elephant Island. It was only the marine biologist, one other passenger, and us on the top deck of our ship. We all wanted to say goodbye to the wonderland that had been so good to us. But right after we turned northward, we spotted a pair of minke whales on the port side. They kept pace with the ship briefly, then crossed underneath us to the other side. We whooped and cheered, our guide included, for we were overjoyed to catch one last interaction with the majestic creatures. I had tears in my eyes when we finally went inside as the ship picked up speed.

Sailing alongside minke whales

You could sense a powerful benevolence from the whales. Despite all the horrors we performed on them, the ones we witnessed in the Southern Ocean only wanted to bond. They dwarfed our zodiacs and could have easily flipped us if they wanted, but there was no sense of danger whatsoever. Whales are inherently peaceful. They embody the exotic, beautiful diversity of species living on this Earth. I will always remember my experience with them. It was definitely one of the highlights or our trip, because it reinforced the simple message: Earth is precious--we must protect it. The other highlight of course, was stepping foot on Antartica itself.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 3: Southern Wildlife

The Antarctic coast might appear desolate upon first glance, but there’s an entire ecosystem of life near the continent, mostly under the water. Penguins dart under the surface near our zodiac, or porpoise in and out of the water in groups, sometimes even racing the zodiac. There are several different species of penguin, and we got to see five on our trip: Gentoo, Magellanic, Chinstrap, Macaroni and King.

Beautiful birds abound in the Antarctic

The real secret of visiting Antarctica is the wildlife experiences made possible by the zodiacs. We landed on a small island, more of a rock outcropping, and watched penguins scuttle here and there. We watched a fur seal bathe in the grey light. Our guides trained us how to ward off the furseals if they became interested in us and approached: stand tall and firm and be big, holding your ground—face them and don't back up.

Fur seal basking in the breeze

We even witnessed a kill. While heading back to the ship after an hour of cruising, there were gasps by others on the zodiac. I looked back and saw the fragmented remains of a gentoo penguin launched in all directions. A leopard seal had just snatched one close to the surface. To more easily devour them, leopard seals will thrash penguins back and forth to rip them apart. Literally ripping their tissue and skin and bones apart, it's a ghastly site. I had never seen a marine kill like that, and it felt very different than the ones I saw in Africa.

The leopard seal thrashing about its caught penguin

As a privileged suburbian from California, I had to adjust to seeing nature in its most raw and deadly form when on safari. In the beginning you feel bad for the prey. But towards the end you start to feel bad for the predators—you see their continual and mounting hunger over the course of a week, and every failed hunting attempt brings them closer to the edge of death. But this was different. I had never seen something in the water, and I was completely unfamiliar with this setting. The penguins hunt the fish, and the seals hunt the penguins, and the orcas hunt the seals... it all flowed together, even if violently. We watched nature take its course.

A gentoo penguin floating nearby

And it struck me how wild all of this was, that I was at the bottom of the world watching marine animals hunt and kill each other, surrounded by scenery impossible anywhere else. That in today's time, a middle-class American could travel down to the White Continent and observe the wildness of life and nature. This is the Earth we inhabit. This is the world we are a part of. In such a faraway place it was plain to understand how removed we are from it. Humans merely study the Antarctic, because we know so little. And yet it's here. The glory of our planet is on full display for anyone who ventures down. It's an incredible experience, because it's so surreal and different, and yet ordinary for the planet in the grand scheme of things.

Chinstrap penguin making its way down the rocks

Observing the wildlife of Antarctica changed me. But it was nothing compared to the whales.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 2: Water and Ice

I vividly remember our approach to Antarctica. We slowed down, as if to proceed carefully through a forbidden environment. The water resembled smooth glass as our ship glided through it noiselessly. It was cold. My hands grew numb while trying to snap pictures. Icebergs big and small littered the Southern Ocean in every direction. The occasional bird swooped past the ship; birds we had never seen before. A lonely seal far away rested on a smaller patch of ice. And individual penguins periodically zoomed through the water--they moved so fast! All of this newness unfolded gradually as we advanced toward the peninsula. And then it was within view: The White Continent.

Drawn to the Antarctic glow at first sight

Seeing the landscapes for the first time was a surreal experience. It's as if you're transported to another realm. A desolate realm, but one of incomparable beauty. The sky was low, providing perfect visibility for the land growing larger as we got closer. The sun illuminated the edge of the most remote piece of land on Earth, the snow shimmering in the light. Foreboding mountains appeared like sentries, guarding an ancient domain. The reflection of the gray-blue water called us toward it. I'm not sure I've ever experienced a more wild place.

Mountains and glaciers dominate the horizon

You can feel the emptiness around Antarctica, and you can inexplicably sense its remoteness. Perhaps because it takes so much effort to get there, but when viewing the continent from the prow of a ship, you know you're looking at a land less visited. Wildlife was present and easily spotted, but we 300 souls were the only humans within miles. You truly feel the sense of adventure, because everything you see is unfamiliar. Most people don't live in the polar regions of the world, so penguins and seals seem just as otherworldly as the landscape. The dark mountains, the immense glaciers, and the feel of the water all feel alien. And yet it's still the Earth; this magnificent planet of which we so easily take for granted.

An expedition leader returning a zodiac to the ship

Because the Drake Passage currents were calm during our crossing, we arrived at Antartica early and had half a day to explore. This meant it was our first time zodiac cruising. These professional-grade rafts were piloted by our expedition guides, jetting us around the shallow areas close to the land. We were able to land on one of the South Shetland islands, where the "Great Wall" Chinese research station was based. Upon landing, we were greeted by various signs pointing to well-known cities and destinations around the world. All distances were astronomical. We also got our passports stamped and examined some old whale bones. The landscape was utterly lunar: rocky, dry and monotone, with little snow.

The Chinese research station was a strange place

I couldn't keep from looking off into the distance, where we could see glaciers and mountains. It was all a strange dream: something foreign and graphic and exciting, as if we were immersed in some bizarre fantasy. Our adventure had only just begun, as we would soon discover the abundant wildlife of the Antarctic.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 1: The Bottom of the World

I'm writing this from the comfortable confines of my own home in Northern California; it was March 2019 when my wife and I visited the Antarctic. But I vividly remember the feeling of the bottom of the world. Embarking on a 16 day journey from Ushuaia, Argentina, we set sail for Antarctica aboard the Ocean Atlantic on March 1st.

Preparing to board the Ocean Atlantic

Tierra del Fuego, or "the land of fire," as Magellan called it, already feels like the world's end. You somehow know when you're on the edge of a continent. The tip of South America is especially remote, with the small town of Ushuaia (~57,000 people) surrounded by undeveloped and protected land. You know you're leaving the last bastion of civilization, toward hundreds of miles of volatile, open ocean. The Drake Passage is notorious for rough seas, and you face its crossing with some trepidation for what may come. The bottom of the world intangibly instills a self reliance, a heightened awareness of survival. You understand the unknowable lies ahead, and you're compelled to muster some courage.

The ever-present backdrop of mountains in Ushuaia

Now we weren't Shackleton's crew drifting towards the white continent. The 130 or so passengers, mostly Chinese citizens from a tour group that didn't fill up, were being shepherded by about 50 well-trained, experienced crew members. But the company, Albatros Expeditions, was adamant upon our booking: this was an expedition, not a cruise. We were guaranteed nothing, emergencies can happen, and danger is real. While we hoped to set foot on the Antarctic peninsula and see penguins, seals, and whales, nothing was given. The weather turns quickly at the bottom of the world, and safety was always the first priority. The slightest uptick in wind, any small gust, while normally unnoticeable, heightened our every nerve.  I had never been on a ship for so long before. There was a mixture of emotions: excitement, nervousness, anxiety, joy. We were going on a true adventure!

The view from the top deck of the ship

We boarded our ship in the late afternoon in the port in Ushuaia. After checking in and some safety briefings, it was time to set off. Clambering up to the top deck to ensure a good view, we bid farewell to South America as we pushed off. It felt surreal to know we wouldn't return to land for more than two weeks. The Ocean Atlantic would be our vessel and home.

Sailing through the Beagle Channel

The journey through the Beagle Channel is breathtaking. High mountains arise on either side as you navigate the long, narrow strait toward the Southern Ocean. You pass the last of three large islands, Isla Nueva, and begin the long journey south. The Drake Passage can take up to 48 hours to cross and can resemble the Drake Lake...or the Drake Shake. We were lucky to experience the former, and arrived at the peninsula after only a day and a half. Our boat was alone as we approached the continent. It's impossible to describe the remoteness. It feels as though you have reached the end of the Earth. And it's a whole new world.

Svalbard First Impressions

Well, five flights later, we’re here. Svalbard is a beautiful, desolate place. The signs around town refer to it as a settlement. Much of it feels industrial, and everything is weatherized to withstand what must be a bitter, grueling winter. But you’re also surrounded by mountain peaks, 600 miles away from the rest of the country. The isolation feels freeing. We can’t wait to board our ship tomorrow, to explore even more, and hopefully encounter lots of wildlife. I’ll be journaling our experience each day, to post when we’re back. Until then, signing off from the top of the world.

Stroll in the Park

So far so good—after much stress and consternation, we’ve arrived in London. A good pub meal makes it all feel better. We made both flights, as did our luggage. And after a stroll through Hyde Park, we stopped at a pub to catch up with friends.

It was too short. I wanted to keep hearing about their recent events, talking about our futures, and swapping travel stories. But I’m so grateful for getting to spend even just a little bit of time with them.

Travel is different now. Airlines, and corporations at large, don’t honor their promises and throw ordinary people to the wind. But I still think it’s worth it. To see friends, to explore new places… that’s living. Here’s to a new place tomorrow.

Setting Off for the Arctic

Airlines today make travel much more difficult and stressful. Our flight was cancelled last night, a mere 25 hours before scheduled departure, without any notification—lucky we checked online.

However, despite all the mess… we are setting off. Today we head east, to Denver, then London, then Oslo. After a night there we fly toward our ultimate destination: Svalbard.

We’re going to take an expedition around the archipelago, hoping to see Northern wildlife. Seals, walrus, various birds, even narwhals are possible to see. But the main attraction is the chance to see polar bears in the wild. Fingers crossed!

It will be my first time to the Arctic, one of the most remote regions on the planet. I don’t even know what I don’t know: it will all feel completely new and there will be lots to learn. To document my experiences there, I will be publishing a Polar Blog Series. Part I will feature the Antarctic, which we visited in March 2019. Part II will feature this upcoming adventure. Stay tuned for the series start on Friday, June 23rd. To the Arctic!

Reactivity

I’m very reactive when calamity strikes. I’m working on getting better. And it’s certainly very easy to become pessimistic with how corporations control society and treat people. And I’m only talking about relatively minor things I’ve experienced as a privileged person in this country;  it can only feel worse when regarding the significance of today, Juneteenth. But I think that’s the first step toward any semblance of solution. We need to be able to talk to each other without being reactive. I need to recognize when calamity isn’t actually calamity. We have to want to believe in hope, that the world can and will get better. Because it will, we will make it better. We just have to take some deep breaths, and try.

Lessons from Dad

1. Get your stuff done first, then you can goof off

2. Always take care of your sister

3. Plan ahead. Most people can’t plan more than a few days ahead

4. Listen to your mother

5. Everyone laughs and smiles for the same reasons

6. It’s harder to concentrate late at night. Get your work done before then

7. Treat women with respect. Never put your hands on a woman

8. Offer your guests a drink

9. Try your best. If it’s a soccer game or school or work, always do the best you can

10. James Bond is cooler than Indiana Jones (I’m still not sure about this one)

11. Look at the mom. That’s what your wife will look like later

12. Travel will teach you about the world

13. Reading and exercise are very important. Do them every day

14. No one likes it when you’re crabby

15. When leaving: say your goodbyes, and make sure you give your grandparents a hug

16. Driving is about anticipation. You need to anticipate what other drivers may do

17. You’ll feel a lot better when your work is done

18. Buy the best home you can afford right now. Make sure you can accept living in it for the rest of your life, even if you plan to move

19. Your spouse is the most important person in your life

20. Be smart

21. Don’t stay up too late

22. In Liar’s dice, you just have to convince the next person

23. Stick with The Hobbit. Just read the first 100 pages. It gets better.

24. When people are worried about when their next meal may come, they’re not thinking about the world and the big picture

25. It’s just sports, just a game. It doesn’t affect your life

26. Dijon mustard really is better than ordinary yellow

27. Clear everyone’s plates

28. When doing a puzzle, start with the edge pieces

29. She’s always right

30. Don’t look back. You can only move forward

Human Constraints

Family really is the most important thing. We may be constrained by our biology—we easily suffer from information overload, and we produce biases and naturally judge beyond a small tribe. But our humanity also produces love and a grounded perception of life and the Earth. Our biology, and our family, makes us human. It’s beautiful and we must embrace it and celebrate it.

Meaningful Solitude

I’ve started reading Digital Minimalism by Cal Newport, and this afternoon I realized I’ve only truly experienced such an extended state once in my life. It was when I moved into my friend’s house in Woodstock, the first suburb outside Cape Town, in the late part of 2011. In our small home, we had no internet and no cable. When we were both home, we had each other, often playing chess late into the night and discussing everything under the sun.

But alone, it provided solitude. I read more books in those few months than ever in my life. I would spend great periods of time reflecting on life and determining what’s important. It was in this timespan I deeply considered my personal principles: respect, responsibility, and resolve. I believe it was from my growth during this time that I decided to get my first tattoo. This graphic on my left side marks my awakening, the first conviction I felt around the vision of my life and the world.

So the book resonates with me, and I’m interested in considering a “digital declutter.” Because besides, it’s certainly one big beautiful amazing world.

Children’s World

My friends all have children, and it’s been eye opening in many ways. Babysitting my niece tonight, I realized again the simple truth: children are the most important people in the world. It’s our sacred duty to protect them, nurture them, and provide them opportunity for a fulfilling life. They are the continuation and iteration of our species. They are also one of the main drivers of meaning in our existence. Without them, we would be lost. This I believe it is our responsibility to do everything we can in our society to enable their success. Through our efforts to improve their worlds, we can change the world.

Tribe and World

No matter the era of humanity, a given individual retreats back to their tribe. Which is why we can never lose that. We can ascend to a global consciousness, but we are still constricted to our biology. Where does that put us?

Life Changes

Life changes. Today I helped watch over my nephew, something that was not part of my equation not too long ago. I couldn’t be more grateful for my tribe. As we get older things change, but our shared experience as we travel through life doesn’t.

Seeing the World

This world is so big with so much to explore. I’m reminded of it when I look through my tribe’s pictures. I guess I’m one of the ones that wants to go everywhere: to see every country and region and landscape and culture. Travel opens up this beautiful world to you. In whatever way you can travel, no matter the distance, you see something unfamiliar. You experience something slightly different. Until you realize those differences are superficial, and the reality is we all inhabit one incredible planet. I want to know this vast world fully, the best I can. Travel unlocks a greater range of experience. Travel raises global consciousness.

Starting to Walk

One of the easiest ways to reset and gain perspective is also something any person can do: go for a walk. My hike today provided opportunity for time with my loved one and for perspective. Anyone who can walk can go for a hike. Our greatest thinkers, from Socrates to Benjamin Franklin, were famous for revelations found on walks. We can change the world with walks. Perhaps we all start walking.

Days to Contribute

The weekend is a time for recuperation and rest when you have a “normal” job. When your career is synonymous with your passion however, there is no distinction between the workweek and the weekend. They’re all just days. Days in which you contribute to your product, your mission, your purpose. With the advent of A.I.’s proliferation, I wonder how far we are from everyone having the opportunity to pursue such a life. I’m not there yet, but I’m working toward it. Because I believe TAV’s mission is the most important thing we can do as a species, right now in this moment: Raise global consciousness. Unite humanity. Inspire change. We are at a turning point on this planet. We can change the world.

Realms

I haven’t played video games in a long while. But I remember the escapism and the fantasy. And sometimes it makes we wonder about our realm. Because in a way, that’s what we know with our universe. We exist on this one realm. What do we do?

Embracing Life’s Magnificence

Life is a journey of wonder, full of extraordinary experiences and emotions, encompassing both triumphs and trials. Each day presents a new chance to nurture relationships and craft a life of purpose.

Life’s beauty lies within the simplest of pleasures. From a heartfelt conversation to the warmth of the sun, it's in the little moments we discover life's magic. Human connection, empathy, and love enrich our existence.

Self-discovery and self-care are vital on this journey. By pursuing our dreams, we unearth our potential and develop resilience. Obstacles become stepping stones, fueling our determination and igniting our spirit.

As technology shapes our world, we can connect globally, learn from each other, and explore the Earth with ease. We are all interconnected. We all contain a shared humanity and together, we have boundless potential.

In this grand adventure, gratitude becomes our guiding star. It helps us recognize the blessings that grace our lives—the precious moments, lessons learned, and endless opportunities. Cultivating gratitude opens our hearts to the wonders of the present moment, transforming life into a tapestry of joy, purpose, and fulfillment.

Let us celebrate the miracles, cherish the connections, and savor the grandeur that surrounds us. Together, let's embrace life's magnificence and embark on this journey together, one in which each day is full of wonder and gratitude.