Resettling into “life”

It can feel so good to be home. Svalbard was the longest trip we’ve done since 2020, and it felt so. Like it is for so many other things, travel is beneficial for evaluating one’s personal lifestyle setup. You’re given a fresh perspective of your life, almost that of a stranger, when you return from a long trip. Nothing is routine anymore, so you see your lifestyle more for as it truly is. How do you spend your time? Based on how you’re living, what do you value? Today I was pleased to find I was satisfied with the answers to those questions. Now, how will I continue to adapt and act on them? How will we strive to do so moving forward, together?

Travel Day Reflection

Travel days going west are always shapeless. I leave at 11:30am local time in Oslo, and am scheduled to arrive at 6:30pm the same day, California time. It will be roughly 18 hours of traveling, compressed into one larger “day.”

These time travel journeys feel like a good time to decompress and reflect. Traveling can be stressful, but I try to think about the journey I just had, and consider all I’ve learned. Travel is only a great education if we remain open and thoughtful. It’s all too easy in today’s world of tours and convenience to snap photos of a destination, to claim you’ve “been there,” without actually visiting a place. Without experiencing all a region has to offer with all one’s senses. I can be just as guilty of it as anyone else at times.

Which is why I reflect on the journey homeward. To remember the tribulations along the way, to reminisce about the delicious food, the unique culture of the locals, and on a trip like this past one, to preserve in my mind’s eye the incredible nature of our planet. It’s a big beautiful amazing world, and part of traveling across it is to allow yourself to take it all in. When we truly appreciate whatever journeys we may take, we start to understand the whole miracle.

So long Norway

Norway has been good to us. After visiting various parts of Oslo for a final time today, it’s time to say goodbye tomorrow morning. I enjoyed seeing this country’s incredible nature and wildlife, learning about its interesting history, and experiencing its unique culture. The Norwegian people are well educated, kind and eager to share about their homeland. Their cities are well run (I love the no cash system here) and efficient. This trip, although brief outside of our Svalbard expedition, offered a fun glimpse into a special part of the world that I had never been to, and hope to someday return. Takk Norge, until next time.

Bergen Sensations

Bergen felt completely different than Oslo and the rest of Norway (or at least the very limited parts we’ve visited). You could tell immediately it was a port town, the last bastion of civilization before open water for centuries of sailors. It was fascinating to learn its history as a German controlled harbor which brought fish and fish oil to the rest of Europe, to the early Norwegian capital, to its entryway to the interior fjords today. Bergen has lush green hills surrounding its position on the sea, charming homes dotting the hillsides in all directions, and character. You can feel the history here, the lives and endeavors of thousands of people who bartered and toiled and survived on the edge of this continent. Today’s experience served as a reminder of the progress we’ve made as a species and the beauty of our story, even the trials and tribulations.

Fjord Exploration

We’re heading to Bergen, Oslo’s second largest city, on the train after a long day visiting Sognefjord. Norway’s public transit system is excellent, efficient and well coordinated. We’ve taken three trains, a bus, and a public ferry to get us from Oslo to the coast with a stop in Norway’s greatest fjord along the way.

Norway’s nature is simply beautiful. The mountains and valleys are dotted with picturesque villages comprised of clean elegant houses. There is snow on the ground in various places, while the landscape is covered with lakes, rivers and waterfalls. Sognefjord itself reminded me of Yosemite with more water. We glided past towering cliffs on either side that were littered with waterfalls. The countryside was idyllic, as if we were transported into a Scandinavian fantasyland.

I understand now why people claim Norway to be the most beautiful of the Nordic countries. Today I witnessed another example of Earth’s scale of majesty. There are so many places worth visiting, and Norway is one of them.

Oslo First Impressions

After a much later start due to a delayed flight, we got to explore Norway’s capital today for the first time. Oslo is a relatively small city, downtown being entirely walkable. It’s very orderly; people don’t cross the small streets when the pedestrian signal isn’t on, and trams and buses quietly whisk by at all times. There is history in its architecture, with modern buildings juxtaposed against cathedrals and theaters and government buildings from the 1600’s. One gets a sense for the entire country by walking around Oslo: Norwegian people are considerate, the country small, and the systems efficient. We hope to learn more over the next few days. Upon arrival, it’s clear there is much we can learn from this vibrant city.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 9: Lessons of the Antarctic

Our trip down to the Antarctic was a transformative experience. I learned so much more than I expected. I observed a new kind of scenery rarely seen, and watched wildlife I had never encountered.

King penguins in South Georgia

But more than that, the expedition reinforced the sheer size and scale of the Earth. It took two days, two days, and four days to get between our three destinations on a modern vessel. Tierra del Fuego, the Antarctic continent, and South Georgia feature completely different environments. The Earth truly is amazing. The bottom of the world resembles Hoth. The jungles of Avatar can be found in the planet’s many jungles. Dune exists in the vast Sahara desert.

Returning to South America through the Beagle Channel

And that’s just the setting. It’s the life on Earth that makes it truly unique. Diverse, plentiful life in all sizes and forms. In the Antarctic we experienced intimate interactions with penguins, seals and whales. We share the world’s oceans and landmasses with these creatures. It is incumbent for us to protect this planet, for it is the only home we know. We are not stewards, but passengers. As we hurtle through space and time aboard our starship, we must recognize this miracle, the miracle that is us. The Antarctic is extraordinary. So are we.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 8: Expedition Methods

Our last four days of the expedition were completely at sea. South Georgia is out there, and even in a modern vessel, it’s a long way back to South America. But it gave us time to decompress from all the stimuli. It also made us feel like real explorers!

Top deck view as we left Antarctica

It was also true that being on the ship was just as much a part of the expedition as anything else. We learned the floors and decks well. It became second nature to head to the briefing room, where our expedition leaders would give us the rundown on the upcoming day, or to hurry up to top deck to try to glimpse some wildlife. We knew the quickest route down to the mud room, which we used to change into our outdoor boots and clothing, and also disinfect to prevent contagion.

Zodiac cruisin’ while shooting zodiac cruisin’

Learning the art and science of riding the zodiacs was the most engaging aspect of the expedition. Two sailors would help you board from the gangway, while your pilot would help catch and seat you on one of the long rubber tubes of the raft. There’s a feel to riding the waves while trying to take pictures or video. And the landings are definitely adventurous: with big waves, the pilot will throw the zodiac into reverse to ride the wave to the shore so you can time your jumping out point to make it to dry land without getting soaked (not a good idea at these latitudes). Our expedition leaders were expert at positioning us in the narrowest of nooks and crannies to get intimate with penguins and seals. We even had one pilot take us up extremely close to a small iceberg so we could touch it.

Seeing a city-sized iceberg from water level, courtesy of a zodiac ride

We only participated in the most thrilling activity on the ship once: the polar plunge. Somewhere off the coast of Antarctica, not quite yet in open water, we stopped the ship. The captain gleefully told us the water was 31 degrees Fahrenheit—the salt content allowed the water to exist below freezing. For anyone who wanted, they could put on their bathing suit and jump off the gangway into the icy depths. Without a doubt, it was the coldest I had ever felt. Immediately upon surfacing after my jump, I scampered back to the gangway to be pulled up by sailors. They handed me a towel… and a shot of vodka—the sailors were all Russian. Safe to say we felt invigorated for several hours afterward.

Jumping into the Southern Ocean

Through all the expedition methods and activities though, my biggest takeaway was the connection to true adventure. We had to do everything in a certain way for safety. The weather dictated our day, what we could and couldn’t do. It was very far removed from how many on the planet live. In a way we were connected to the muses of the Earth. And it felt good to know that still exists in the world.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 7: Spectacular South Georgia

Our guides kept telling us to wait until we got to South Georgia. While we wowed over wildlife in Antarctica, they simply smiled. Despite all their proclamations of South Georgia’s brilliance, we still weren’t prepared. We made 6 stops along the eastern side of the island over the course of 3 days. Every moment was awe-inspiring.

Three different species overwhelming the beach

South Georgia is in the middle of nowhere, right where the currents cross between the Atlantic and Southern oceans. A dozen or so scientists temporarily inhabit the island on any given year. Besides their base in Grytviken, the rest of the land is owned by the wildlife. Hundreds of thousands of birds call South Georgia home. There are also tens of thousands of seals. It’s simply a wildlife phenomenon unlike anything else on Earth. You feel you’ve entered a National Geographic documentary when visiting.

Tens of thousands of king penguins

We were treated to remarkably good weather while visiting all the main destinations: Grytviken, Salisbury Plain, Fortuna Bay, Gold Harbour, St. Andrew’s Bay, and Cooper Bay. The dramatic scenery, completely visible in the clear weather, was only surpassed by the jaw dropping amount of wildlife. We laughed at the clumsy and playful baby fur seals as they swam over each other in the shallows and bounded through the tussock grass patches. We watched elephant seals bounce out of the water to rest on the shore, some of the males well over a thousand pounds. We picked our way carefully on long walks, careful not to bump into one of the tens of thousands of king penguins on the way to their rookery. It was impossible to take a photo without some type of bird or animal in it. And all the commotion and noise echoed off the backdrop of blue glaciers, jagged peaks, and snow covered fields.

King penguins basking in the last remaining sun

We booked the expedition to see Antarctica, a place completely foreign to anything we had ever experienced. But South Georgia stole the show. The complete isolation, the scenery, and the astonishing proliferation of wildlife… it was a perfect crescendo to our trip. We were sad to leave, and faced four days at sea to return back to Ushuaia.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 6: Shackleton’s Story

We were fortunate to have some true Shackleton scholars on our ship. Our expedition route partially followed his ill-fated attempt to make the first land crossing of the Antarctic continent, and thus our voyage was certainly Shackleton-themed. Maps adorned many of the common room sections of the ship, and our guides provided a running commentary of his crew’s trials and tribulations. Thankfully, our journey contained only good luck.

Foreboding Elephant Island

When we departed Antarctica, we made way for Elephant Island, a desolate, isolated island with an eponymous shape. It was here that his crew sheltered for four and a half months after their ship, Endurance, broke apart and sunk in the Antarctic ice. While most of the crew remained huddled on Elephant Island surviving on any wildlife they could catch and kill, Sir Ernest Shackleton and 5 crew members braved 800 miles of open ocean—in a rowboat—to South Georgia Island. Even upon landing, a miracle in itself, these 6 courageous souls had to cross the mountain range that stretches the island’s spine. In Grytviken they were able to get help, and incredibly, ever single member of the crew survived (the rest of the crew who remained on Elephant Island were rescued almost 5 months later). It’s truly an amazing story. That is the level of lore that embodies Antarctica. Decades of profound history precede any orthodox tourist journey down south. With our 16 day expedition, we experienced some of that history with intimacy.

Shackleton and his crew survived off fur seals

We stayed at Elephant Island for less than an hour. It was unthinkable to try to make a landing. The wind terrorized us as we cowered from it on the top deck of the ship, gazing towards the most inhospitable spit of land I had ever seen. After snapping some pictures and shaking myself from a reverie, we trudged back inside. Our captain and expedition leader were eager to leave. It was almost unfathomable that 22 men survived for so long in such a hell. Our guides, most boasting at least a decade of experience, grumbled how they had each only landed on the island itself once or twice. As nightfall hastened, we resumed north to South Georgia.

Shackleton’s grave in Grytviken

It took 2 days for us to reach the island on our massive ship. I can’t imagine the journey in a rowboat. Shackleton’s journal recounts swells more than 100 feet high. Just thinking about it makes me shudder. Our travel was leisurely, as we looked for whales and birds while enjoying good weather. I read up more on Shackleton’s exploits and adventures. It was fascinating to learn about humanity’s progress as we tried to explore entirety of our planet. And then we were greeted with the most spectacular island I’ve ever visited.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 5: The 7th (not really) Continent

The day finally arrived in which we would land on the Antarctic continent itself. Everyone on the ship was excited; so few people venture to this remotest region of the planet. Our morning began with the usual wake up call from the expedition leader, who told us the temperature and weather forecast in his soft, calm voice. After a quick breakfast we organized into our usual "red" and "blue" groups--there were only enough zodiacs for half the passengers at a time, so we took turns. One group would take the zodiacs to land, while the other waited for those same zodiacs to come back to the ship to pick them up for an hour cruising around.

Passengers landing on the continent

We were the first group to land on the continent that morning. We had already landed on the South Shetland islands and a few other small rock outcroppings, but not the actual landmass itself. Our zodiac pilot got us extremely close to a low lying shore, and then we jumped into the shallow water and trudged up the snow covered embankment. Climbing up some gradual hills, we reached a point where we could enjoy a mesmerizing view of the surrounding landscape. Snow was ubiquitous in all directions, and you could see glaciers near the distant mountains. The sea glittered with icebergs blue big and small. It was hard to believe--we were standing on the edge of a huge landmass, a continent larger than Oceania. Although least explored, Antarctica was still a huge landmass on the Earth!

The vastness of the 7th continent

I remember one of the other passengers near us as we trekked up the tallest hill. "Yes, yes!" he cried triumphantly. We smiled at him, a little surprised. "Is this your seventh continent?!" he exclaimed? "No..." I replied... "I've never been to Australia." He looked surprised and slightly crestfallen. Apparently it is just as big a deal to check off visiting the seventh continent as it is to experience the expedition... for some. My wife and I chuckled to each other. We were thrilled to embark on the expedition for the chance to see unique wildlife and amazing landscapes, for the pure adventure. I guess we had some more traveling to do before we could "check off" all the continents.

Exploring the hills… and the slide

Feeling free and euphoric, we slid down the "slide" the expedition guides created for us. We couldn't believe what we were doing. Walking around Antarctica was like visiting the moon. We were exploring a landmass that likely only ~500,000 people have ever set foot on. It was surreal. As we would soon learn, Antarctica is synonymous with adventure.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 4: Whales

Nothing could have prepared us for our experience with the whales. Our encounters with them felt spiritual, and they epitomized the reasoning for visiting Antarctica. Sightings were made from the decks of The Ocean Atlantic, and those were memorable, but our interactions with whales from the zodiacs were magical. Only a foot or two above the surface of the water, we would drift along the Southern Ocean, motor off, surrounded by icebergs the size of houses and stadiums. The only sounds were the lapping of the water and the sharp intakes of cold air. And then one would surface, an enormous humpback, right next to us. Its blow would powerfully pierce the stillness, and then we'd see the rest of its body come up to the surface of the water. It was incredible.

Humpback’s face right in front of us, barnacles and all

It felt as though the humpbacks were communicating with us, almost reassuring us the raw nature enveloping us was okay. That's how overwhelming the experience was. They would say hello at the surface, sometimes go under our zodiac, and then appear somewhere else a little later. Our guides explained they came down to feed, and would lazily glide through the nutrient-dense water. They were calm, and their presence was reassuring, not alarming.

Zodiac observing two whales

The humpbacks were by far the most numerous, but we also saw minke whales and southern right whales--even blue whales! We observed a few minke whales from the zodiac; slightly smaller than the humpbacks, they were a little more wary to approach as closely. The most surprising sighting of the minkes, however, came as we were departing Antarctica for Elephant Island. It was only the marine biologist, one other passenger, and us on the top deck of our ship. We all wanted to say goodbye to the wonderland that had been so good to us. But right after we turned northward, we spotted a pair of minke whales on the port side. They kept pace with the ship briefly, then crossed underneath us to the other side. We whooped and cheered, our guide included, for we were overjoyed to catch one last interaction with the majestic creatures. I had tears in my eyes when we finally went inside as the ship picked up speed.

Sailing alongside minke whales

You could sense a powerful benevolence from the whales. Despite all the horrors we performed on them, the ones we witnessed in the Southern Ocean only wanted to bond. They dwarfed our zodiacs and could have easily flipped us if they wanted, but there was no sense of danger whatsoever. Whales are inherently peaceful. They embody the exotic, beautiful diversity of species living on this Earth. I will always remember my experience with them. It was definitely one of the highlights or our trip, because it reinforced the simple message: Earth is precious--we must protect it. The other highlight of course, was stepping foot on Antartica itself.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 3: Southern Wildlife

The Antarctic coast might appear desolate upon first glance, but there’s an entire ecosystem of life near the continent, mostly under the water. Penguins dart under the surface near our zodiac, or porpoise in and out of the water in groups, sometimes even racing the zodiac. There are several different species of penguin, and we got to see five on our trip: Gentoo, Magellanic, Chinstrap, Macaroni and King.

Beautiful birds abound in the Antarctic

The real secret of visiting Antarctica is the wildlife experiences made possible by the zodiacs. We landed on a small island, more of a rock outcropping, and watched penguins scuttle here and there. We watched a fur seal bathe in the grey light. Our guides trained us how to ward off the furseals if they became interested in us and approached: stand tall and firm and be big, holding your ground—face them and don't back up.

Fur seal basking in the breeze

We even witnessed a kill. While heading back to the ship after an hour of cruising, there were gasps by others on the zodiac. I looked back and saw the fragmented remains of a gentoo penguin launched in all directions. A leopard seal had just snatched one close to the surface. To more easily devour them, leopard seals will thrash penguins back and forth to rip them apart. Literally ripping their tissue and skin and bones apart, it's a ghastly site. I had never seen a marine kill like that, and it felt very different than the ones I saw in Africa.

The leopard seal thrashing about its caught penguin

As a privileged suburbian from California, I had to adjust to seeing nature in its most raw and deadly form when on safari. In the beginning you feel bad for the prey. But towards the end you start to feel bad for the predators—you see their continual and mounting hunger over the course of a week, and every failed hunting attempt brings them closer to the edge of death. But this was different. I had never seen something in the water, and I was completely unfamiliar with this setting. The penguins hunt the fish, and the seals hunt the penguins, and the orcas hunt the seals... it all flowed together, even if violently. We watched nature take its course.

A gentoo penguin floating nearby

And it struck me how wild all of this was, that I was at the bottom of the world watching marine animals hunt and kill each other, surrounded by scenery impossible anywhere else. That in today's time, a middle-class American could travel down to the White Continent and observe the wildness of life and nature. This is the Earth we inhabit. This is the world we are a part of. In such a faraway place it was plain to understand how removed we are from it. Humans merely study the Antarctic, because we know so little. And yet it's here. The glory of our planet is on full display for anyone who ventures down. It's an incredible experience, because it's so surreal and different, and yet ordinary for the planet in the grand scheme of things.

Chinstrap penguin making its way down the rocks

Observing the wildlife of Antarctica changed me. But it was nothing compared to the whales.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 2: Water and Ice

I vividly remember our approach to Antarctica. We slowed down, as if to proceed carefully through a forbidden environment. The water resembled smooth glass as our ship glided through it noiselessly. It was cold. My hands grew numb while trying to snap pictures. Icebergs big and small littered the Southern Ocean in every direction. The occasional bird swooped past the ship; birds we had never seen before. A lonely seal far away rested on a smaller patch of ice. And individual penguins periodically zoomed through the water--they moved so fast! All of this newness unfolded gradually as we advanced toward the peninsula. And then it was within view: The White Continent.

Drawn to the Antarctic glow at first sight

Seeing the landscapes for the first time was a surreal experience. It's as if you're transported to another realm. A desolate realm, but one of incomparable beauty. The sky was low, providing perfect visibility for the land growing larger as we got closer. The sun illuminated the edge of the most remote piece of land on Earth, the snow shimmering in the light. Foreboding mountains appeared like sentries, guarding an ancient domain. The reflection of the gray-blue water called us toward it. I'm not sure I've ever experienced a more wild place.

Mountains and glaciers dominate the horizon

You can feel the emptiness around Antarctica, and you can inexplicably sense its remoteness. Perhaps because it takes so much effort to get there, but when viewing the continent from the prow of a ship, you know you're looking at a land less visited. Wildlife was present and easily spotted, but we 300 souls were the only humans within miles. You truly feel the sense of adventure, because everything you see is unfamiliar. Most people don't live in the polar regions of the world, so penguins and seals seem just as otherworldly as the landscape. The dark mountains, the immense glaciers, and the feel of the water all feel alien. And yet it's still the Earth; this magnificent planet of which we so easily take for granted.

An expedition leader returning a zodiac to the ship

Because the Drake Passage currents were calm during our crossing, we arrived at Antartica early and had half a day to explore. This meant it was our first time zodiac cruising. These professional-grade rafts were piloted by our expedition guides, jetting us around the shallow areas close to the land. We were able to land on one of the South Shetland islands, where the "Great Wall" Chinese research station was based. Upon landing, we were greeted by various signs pointing to well-known cities and destinations around the world. All distances were astronomical. We also got our passports stamped and examined some old whale bones. The landscape was utterly lunar: rocky, dry and monotone, with little snow.

The Chinese research station was a strange place

I couldn't keep from looking off into the distance, where we could see glaciers and mountains. It was all a strange dream: something foreign and graphic and exciting, as if we were immersed in some bizarre fantasy. Our adventure had only just begun, as we would soon discover the abundant wildlife of the Antarctic.

Polar Blog Series Part I: The Antarctic

Chapter 1: The Bottom of the World

I'm writing this from the comfortable confines of my own home in Northern California; it was March 2019 when my wife and I visited the Antarctic. But I vividly remember the feeling of the bottom of the world. Embarking on a 16 day journey from Ushuaia, Argentina, we set sail for Antarctica aboard the Ocean Atlantic on March 1st.

Preparing to board the Ocean Atlantic

Tierra del Fuego, or "the land of fire," as Magellan called it, already feels like the world's end. You somehow know when you're on the edge of a continent. The tip of South America is especially remote, with the small town of Ushuaia (~57,000 people) surrounded by undeveloped and protected land. You know you're leaving the last bastion of civilization, toward hundreds of miles of volatile, open ocean. The Drake Passage is notorious for rough seas, and you face its crossing with some trepidation for what may come. The bottom of the world intangibly instills a self reliance, a heightened awareness of survival. You understand the unknowable lies ahead, and you're compelled to muster some courage.

The ever-present backdrop of mountains in Ushuaia

Now we weren't Shackleton's crew drifting towards the white continent. The 130 or so passengers, mostly Chinese citizens from a tour group that didn't fill up, were being shepherded by about 50 well-trained, experienced crew members. But the company, Albatros Expeditions, was adamant upon our booking: this was an expedition, not a cruise. We were guaranteed nothing, emergencies can happen, and danger is real. While we hoped to set foot on the Antarctic peninsula and see penguins, seals, and whales, nothing was given. The weather turns quickly at the bottom of the world, and safety was always the first priority. The slightest uptick in wind, any small gust, while normally unnoticeable, heightened our every nerve.  I had never been on a ship for so long before. There was a mixture of emotions: excitement, nervousness, anxiety, joy. We were going on a true adventure!

The view from the top deck of the ship

We boarded our ship in the late afternoon in the port in Ushuaia. After checking in and some safety briefings, it was time to set off. Clambering up to the top deck to ensure a good view, we bid farewell to South America as we pushed off. It felt surreal to know we wouldn't return to land for more than two weeks. The Ocean Atlantic would be our vessel and home.

Sailing through the Beagle Channel

The journey through the Beagle Channel is breathtaking. High mountains arise on either side as you navigate the long, narrow strait toward the Southern Ocean. You pass the last of three large islands, Isla Nueva, and begin the long journey south. The Drake Passage can take up to 48 hours to cross and can resemble the Drake Lake...or the Drake Shake. We were lucky to experience the former, and arrived at the peninsula after only a day and a half. Our boat was alone as we approached the continent. It's impossible to describe the remoteness. It feels as though you have reached the end of the Earth. And it's a whole new world.

Svalbard First Impressions

Well, five flights later, we’re here. Svalbard is a beautiful, desolate place. The signs around town refer to it as a settlement. Much of it feels industrial, and everything is weatherized to withstand what must be a bitter, grueling winter. But you’re also surrounded by mountain peaks, 600 miles away from the rest of the country. The isolation feels freeing. We can’t wait to board our ship tomorrow, to explore even more, and hopefully encounter lots of wildlife. I’ll be journaling our experience each day, to post when we’re back. Until then, signing off from the top of the world.

Stroll in the Park

So far so good—after much stress and consternation, we’ve arrived in London. A good pub meal makes it all feel better. We made both flights, as did our luggage. And after a stroll through Hyde Park, we stopped at a pub to catch up with friends.

It was too short. I wanted to keep hearing about their recent events, talking about our futures, and swapping travel stories. But I’m so grateful for getting to spend even just a little bit of time with them.

Travel is different now. Airlines, and corporations at large, don’t honor their promises and throw ordinary people to the wind. But I still think it’s worth it. To see friends, to explore new places… that’s living. Here’s to a new place tomorrow.

Setting Off for the Arctic

Airlines today make travel much more difficult and stressful. Our flight was cancelled last night, a mere 25 hours before scheduled departure, without any notification—lucky we checked online.

However, despite all the mess… we are setting off. Today we head east, to Denver, then London, then Oslo. After a night there we fly toward our ultimate destination: Svalbard.

We’re going to take an expedition around the archipelago, hoping to see Northern wildlife. Seals, walrus, various birds, even narwhals are possible to see. But the main attraction is the chance to see polar bears in the wild. Fingers crossed!

It will be my first time to the Arctic, one of the most remote regions on the planet. I don’t even know what I don’t know: it will all feel completely new and there will be lots to learn. To document my experiences there, I will be publishing a Polar Blog Series. Part I will feature the Antarctic, which we visited in March 2019. Part II will feature this upcoming adventure. Stay tuned for the series start on Friday, June 23rd. To the Arctic!

Reactivity

I’m very reactive when calamity strikes. I’m working on getting better. And it’s certainly very easy to become pessimistic with how corporations control society and treat people. And I’m only talking about relatively minor things I’ve experienced as a privileged person in this country;  it can only feel worse when regarding the significance of today, Juneteenth. But I think that’s the first step toward any semblance of solution. We need to be able to talk to each other without being reactive. I need to recognize when calamity isn’t actually calamity. We have to want to believe in hope, that the world can and will get better. Because it will, we will make it better. We just have to take some deep breaths, and try.

Lessons from Dad

1. Get your stuff done first, then you can goof off

2. Always take care of your sister

3. Plan ahead. Most people can’t plan more than a few days ahead

4. Listen to your mother

5. Everyone laughs and smiles for the same reasons

6. It’s harder to concentrate late at night. Get your work done before then

7. Treat women with respect. Never put your hands on a woman

8. Offer your guests a drink

9. Try your best. If it’s a soccer game or school or work, always do the best you can

10. James Bond is cooler than Indiana Jones (I’m still not sure about this one)

11. Look at the mom. That’s what your wife will look like later

12. Travel will teach you about the world

13. Reading and exercise are very important. Do them every day

14. No one likes it when you’re crabby

15. When leaving: say your goodbyes, and make sure you give your grandparents a hug

16. Driving is about anticipation. You need to anticipate what other drivers may do

17. You’ll feel a lot better when your work is done

18. Buy the best home you can afford right now. Make sure you can accept living in it for the rest of your life, even if you plan to move

19. Your spouse is the most important person in your life

20. Be smart

21. Don’t stay up too late

22. In Liar’s dice, you just have to convince the next person

23. Stick with The Hobbit. Just read the first 100 pages. It gets better.

24. When people are worried about when their next meal may come, they’re not thinking about the world and the big picture

25. It’s just sports, just a game. It doesn’t affect your life

26. Dijon mustard really is better than ordinary yellow

27. Clear everyone’s plates

28. When doing a puzzle, start with the edge pieces

29. She’s always right

30. Don’t look back. You can only move forward